IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you do anything to the saw you need to make sure that the saw not cutting straight is not being caused by a worn out or glazed over blade. Many times when cutting hard material the blade can "glaze over", meaning the heat of cutting the hard material has caused the matrix metals in the segment to smear across the diamonds. When this happens it will become increasingly difficult to cut the harder materials and the motor will bog down or stall out. The blade will also begin to hunt around in the material and your cuts will not be straight. If this is the case you need to either dress the blade and open the diamonds back up or replace the blade. You must be sure you are using a blade that is correctly matched to the material you are cutting. Tools required for adjustment procedure: You will need the 4 mm allen wrench and 10mm wrench (supplied with saw), and a 24" - 30 " L shaped carpenters square or straight edge. Note: We will refer to the front of the saw in this procedure. The front is the end closest to you as you stand in front the saw ready to cut and the end which the fences are located on. Step 1: Take an "L" shaped carpenters square or a straight edge and align the longest end of it next to the blade with the blade at the far end of the travel bar from the front of the saw. The shorter part of the L end should be up tight against the left side fence. Step 2: Now pull the blade through it's length of travel. It should stay within 1/32" of the square or straight edge. Step 3: If the blade does not follow up tight to the square as you pull it along, then carefully loosen the four bolts that hold the travel bar to the upright arm at the front of the saw. Once they are loose you can lightly tap on the travel bar and move it about 1mm left or right to align the blade tight up against the square. The amount of travel side to side of the bar is minimal but will translate into lots of movement down below on the cutting table and should allow the blade the amount of room necessary to be adjusted. Step 4: Once you have the blade up against the square you can re tighten the bolts that hold the travel bar to the upright arm. BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN THESE BOLTS! The travel bar is made from extruded aluminum and can be easily stripped out. The over tightening of the bolts will not help the saws alignment, only moving the travel bar left or right can Additional item to check and adjust: If the 4 steps above have not corrected the problem, and you are positive it is not a blade problem then you may have a situation where the roller carriage inside the travel bar has loosened. This causes the blade to be misaligned because the roller carriage is not properly tightened inside the travel bar. You must refer to page 10 of your manual and you will see how the front and rear rollers are mounted on a cam axle (part#11) This cam axle is held in place by two allen screws (part#9). To set the rollers in the proper position loosen the two allen screws, then slide a phillips head screw driver through the hole in the middle of the cam axle and rotate the cam axle with finger tip pressure until the rollers are snug inside the travel bar Then lubricate the assembly with WD-40 and check that the roller assembly rolls smoothly back and forth between inside the travel bar. If the rolling action is stiff then you have put too much tension on the axle cams and need to loosen the allen screw and tension the cam axle again. Remember light fingertip pressure!